Interlining, also designated as interfacing, is a textile layer between two outer layers of the shell fabric. The textile layer protects the outer layers of the shell from any stress applied during fabric usage or production.
t protects the fabric and maintains its shape by providing sufficient stability, support and strength. Interlining is mainly composed of nylon, viscose, polyester and cotton, which is flexible, thick and soft.
1- The role of interlining.
Interlining plays an important role in fabric manufacture. The following is the leading role of interlining.
- It gives a better shape and curve to the clothing.
- It prevents fabric deformation and thus helps maintain the fabric’s original shape during washing and wearing.
- It makes the sewing process of fabric easier.
- It increases the elasticity and stiffness of the fabric.
- It enhances the plumpness and thickness of the fabric.
- It helps in reinforcing clothing parts.
- It increases the comfort of the fabric.
Interlinings are classified by use and fabric structure
How to choose the right interlining
Interlining is classified into different types based on fabric structure and application point.
Interlining is classified according to fabric structure
According to the fabric structure, the interlining is categorized into three types.
- Woven interlining
- Knits interlining
- Non-woven interlining
Woven interlining
Woven interlining is made of 100% cotton or polyester and is widely used in shirts, jackets, coats, belts, etc. The woven fabric is firm and stable because it is a woven interlining. Polyester and cotton are blended in different quantities to prevent shrinkage of the cotton fabric.
The main advantages of woven interlining are soft, good flexibility and good shape protection.
knitting interlining
Knitted interlining is used in knitted fabric with varying loop structures. Loop structure provides flexibility with enough strength and body volume. Fine bulked filaments are used in the knitted interlining, making it smooth and lightweight.
It is mainly used for high-demand clothing, such as high-fashion shirts。
Non-woven interlining
Non-woven interlining is made of a material containing 100% polyamide. Polyamides are synthesized or thermally enhanced.。
- It is strong, flexible, lightweight and inexpensive.
Classification by application
Based on the applications, the interlining is divided into two types.
- Fusible interlining
- Non fusible interlining
Fusible interlining
It is the most commonly used type of interlining by applying an fusible liner between two layers of fabric using heat and pressure for a specific time.。
Widely used in all kinds of clothing. It plays a vital role in improving the appearance of clothing。
The base fabric’s fresh appearance and crispiness are maintained due to fusible interlining. It strengthens the specific features of the garment design and keeps the fabric quality.
Advantages of fusible interlining
Fusible interlining offers several advantages.
The productivity of fusible linings is very high.
It shows excellent performance.
The time required for the fusion process is significantly reduced
Disadvantages of fusible interlining
The disadvantages of fusible interlining are as follows.
- The temperature required for fusible interlining is very high.
- The attachment of interlining requires special care.
Non-fusible interlining
Non-fusible interlining is also termed sewn interlining. In this, the interlining is directly fixed between two layers of fabrics with the help of sewing.
There is no need for pressure and heat to fix the interlining between fabric layers. Preparing the sewn interlining needs treatment of fabric with starch. After treatment, the material is allowed to dry. In the last, its sewing is done with the main fabric.
Advantages of non-fusible interlining
Different advantages of non-fusible or sewn fusible interlining are discussed below.
- Non-fusible interlining is simple and easy.
- This technique can use in high heat or re-rolling or steel industry.
- The flame retardant apparel or garments can manufacture by using non-fusible interlining.
- There is no need for any elaborate machine for this technique.
Disadvantages of non-fusible interlining
Here are some disadvantages of non-fusible interlining.
- Non-fusible interlining needs preparation, so it can not find in the market.
- The time required is high, so it is a time taken technique.
- The major disadvantage of this technique is its poor quality.
- It is an expensive technique.
- Large production cannot be attained using this technique.
- The workload needed for this technique is high.
Choose suitable interlining cloth according to the type of clothing, shoes, and hats.
It is compulsory to choose the interlining according to t the type of clothing, shoes, and hats. You must choose different clothing linings according to the kind of garments. The polyethylene-coated collar lining is used in the shirts of men and women.
It helps in maintaining its shape and shows resistance to washing. You can also use it as cuffs, auxiliary lining, and mainlining. Polyamide-coated outer lining can use in the outwear dressing, and polyester-coated garment lining can use in silk and fashion garments, giving them a stiff, smooth, and light style.
PVC coated type interlining can use for the manufacturing of coat-type garments. PVA-coated interlining can be used between leather materials to manufacture shoes and hats.
Choose suitable interlining according to the primary material of cloth, shoes, and hats.
You must remember the material of the cloth, shoes, and hats while choosing interlining. A lining with a higher amount of coating with smaller mesh is commonly used for high-weight material and with warp and weft twists. It offers maximum peel strength after bonding.
The thin and light material lining must have a slight coating amount and a high mesh count. It prevents leakage of glue during ironing and bonding. You must choose interlining with the same colors for light materials to prevent the penetration of stains.
Similarly, choose elastic interlining for a flexible material. Moreover, depending on the material, you can select woven, knitted, and non-woven interlining.
Choose suitable interlining according to the washing requirement of cloth, shoes, and hats.
You must choose washable lining for the washable cloth, shoes, and hat. You must select adhesive lining with maximum peel strength for clothes, shoes, and hats that need excessive washing. The adhesive interlining with greater peel strength prevents the reduction of interlining adhesion during washing.
Polyamide-coated interlining is suitable for clothes, shoes, and hats that require dry cleaning. PVC and polyester coated interlining is ideal for dry washable and cleanable garments. PVA coated interlining can use for clothes and shoes, which requires limited washability and cannot dry clean.
Choose appropriate interlining according to the particular function of the garment.
You can choose interlining according to their unique functions, such as for transparent, light fabric. Your base color should match the color of interlining. You do not need to use charcoal or white and black color in your garments. Your interlining should be soft and do not feel harsh or demanding while rubbing or wearing it.
The bond value of 5-7 N per 5cm strip will be sufficient if your product is for a small area and requires close stitching. Your garments should be the same color, and there should be no change in their visual look or effect in color change. On the other side of interlining, there should be no shiny dots of glue to make it look rough.
Functions of interlining
Interlining performs the following functions.
- Control apparels area.
- Support garments.
- Improves garment performance
- Control apparel shape
- It makes fabric attractive, strong, and beautiful.
- Improves the fabric quality.
Difference between fusible and non-fusible interlining
The temperature required for fusible interlining is high. At the same time, no temperature is necessary for non-fusible interlining. Fusible interlining is suitable for more large products that cannot achieve by using non-fusible interlining. Fusible interlining can be available in the market.
On the other hand, non-fusible interlining is not available in the market. A complicated machine requires fusible interlining and is not necessary for non-fusible interlining. Less processing time requires for fusible interlining, but more processing time is needed for non-fusible interlining.
The labor cost of fusible interlining is low, while the labor cost of non-fusible interlining is high. Fusing interlining is less expensive, while non-fusible interlining is expensive.
Conclusion
Interlining is a textile layer outside the shell fabric used in various garments. Based on fabric structure and application point, it can classifY into woven interlining, knits interlining, non-woven interlining, fusible interlining, and non-fusible interlining. You must choose interlining according to the type, material, washing requirement, and special functions of the garment to provide it strength, and elasticity, improve quality and enhance its physical appearance.
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